Step 2- Lay the sheet centred over the top of the template and, on boths sides, mark out the main features of the shape that need to be formed such as ridges, valleys and highest points around the edges which will need to be shrunk to create the bowl shape.
Step 3- Lay the sheet over the hebel carved bowl and using the larger end of the tear drop mallet, beat the metal down into the mold creating small bends such as the ones shown below
Step 4- Place the metal on a flat, solid and clean surface. Take a flat ended mallet and beat the ridges formed around the edges of the metal, back down flat, causing the metal to shrink.
Step 5- Repeat multiple times until the metal begins to form a bowl shape similar to the radius of the main curve of the top of the template.
Step 6- Once the initial bowl shape starts to form, more directed shrinking can be achieved in a similar method using a vice and a pair of long nose pliers as shown below.
Step 7- Carve out a longer shallower valley into the side of the hebel block. Align the ridge marking along the valley and using the rounded end of a ball pein hammer, lightly beat the metal down into the mold around half a centimetre.
Step 8- At this point align 2 adjacent sides of the metal with lines on the grid pattern and mark to help locate the metals correct location on the template. Ensure the metal is placed in this location each time to maintain accuracy
Step 9- Use the shrinking machine around the marked highest points on each side to bring the corners down. Avoid shrinking too much with only small adjustments at a time as too much shrinking will cause the top of the metal to sit above the template which will be hard to fix. Also avoid too much shrinking in one spot as it will cause the metal to crack
*At this point I was running out of time and I needed to get the metal into shape quickly so I used the shrinking machine to pull the edges of the shape in, forming more of a bowl shape. This however left large groves in the metal's surface which led to a worse finish. Continuing using the slower stump molding technique would produce a smoother and nicer finish.
Step 10- Flatten out the corner closest to the opening of the valley using the sandbag and one of the mallets.
Step 11- Use a large, round, steel dolly and a ball pein hammer to reshape the main bowl and if it has been knocked in during the last step.
Step 12- If the corner sits too high, use the shrinking machine in the location shown until it reaches the right level.
Step 13- Use the dolly once again to bend down the final tip and curve it to shape.
Step 14- Using available curved dollies and a planishing hammer, planish the surface flat and get rid of any bumps and marks
Step 15- Fix any areas not fitting correctly with minimal shrinking in previously shown locations as well as some hand bending adjustments.
Step 16- Planish again if needed then mark and cut the edges to fit the template grid
Step 17- File or sand smooth rough edges and use steel wool to clean up the surface.
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